The Madrones

By now most of you who read my blog regularly know how pet friendly the wineries of Mendocino County are and what unique experiences each one provides its four legged visitors along with their uprights. So imagine the thrill when I heard about a wine tasting location in Anderson Valley that has recently opened encompassing three of my most favorite things, wine tasting, cheese tasting and shopping all in one exquisite experience.

The Madrones is a Mediterranean style complex that has been a work in progress for the last 20 years by owner Jim Roberts. Featuring intimate courtyards, relaxing water features, colorful flora and outside café tables all meld together to create a serene setting that is just perfect for sipping exquisite small batch handcrafted wines and nibbling on artisan cheeses. Located in the town of Philo, The Madrones has had several incarnations, beginning its life as a rural homestead, then morphing itself into a design center and creative think tank and now to its new reincarnation as a classic Mediterranean Estate housing the tasting rooms for a unique collection of award-winning handcrafted/small lot wineries. These include Lula Cellars (I am particularly fond of this name as it is the nickname of my best girlfriend Tallulah, a delightful French bulldog.), Drew Family Cellars, Berridge Wine Company and Bink Wines. Each winery has a separate tasting room within The Madrones; offering the visitor an intimate and very personal wine tasting experience. All of the tasting rooms welcome us with bowls of fresh water and yummy treats. You may even be lucky to meet Rupert an extremely sociable and friendly mixed breed fellow who is often at The Madrones. With his upright Monica, the tasting manager for Bink Wines, his job is greeting and making us four legged visitors very welcome.

Hairy at Lula Cellar's

A particular gem of a store at The Madrones is the Sun & Cricket which offers a very different shopping experience for the discerning visitor. Their mantra is “Fine Rural Living and Tools for the Journey.” Specializing in an eclectic mix of books, antiques, classic toys, garden tools and one of a kind items. The store also features a select offering of fine artisan cheeses and best of all we get to go shopping there too. As you wander around this space you will hear the uprights marvel at the delightful treasures displayed. I, however, was quite content to sit patiently in front of the glass case that contained the array of delicious cheeses as I waited for a nibble of the yummy samples.

The Madrones Estate has two beautifully appointed luxurious guest suites; unfortunately at this time they are not pet friendly but I have been told that they hope to offer a pet friendly accommodation soon. As soon as it is open you can be assured that I will check it out, my canine brethren. Garden tours of the estate and gardening workshops are also available and times and dates can be found under the events calendar on the website: www.themadrones.com.

The Madrones is a wonderful place to experience anytime and a great place to chill for a spell and soak up the natural beauty and charm of Mendocino County. The Madrones offers a perfect slice of Mediterranean living in picturesque Anderson Valley.

Salute

Hairy

 Mendocino County is fast becoming the “go to” place for fun-filled festivals and often these are not always able to include us. So when I learned that Hopland Passport was coming up (October 22 – 23) and knowing that many of its pet friendly wineries were taking part, I decided this was my chance to join in some festival fun.

Picture of Lula (she's on the right)

With 16 wineries taking part (including a few usually open to the public only by appointment) they were all featuring gourmet food, live entertainment and showcasing many new vintages of their hand crafted wines over these two days. I knew this was a great opportunity to take my French bulldog best girl, Lula, out for a date away from the coast and show the lady what a rock’n good time can be had in Hopland. It was a gloriously clear blue sky morning when, accompanied by my uprights, two dear friends (one who was our DD, designated driver), Lula’s mum and the princess herself, we departed Fort Bragg. Meandering along Highway 1 beautifully showcased the amazing views of an unusually calm turquoise Pacific Ocean which dazzled the eyes as it reflected the abundant sunshine. Next we traveled over Highway 128, through the landscape’s kaleidoscope of changing fall colors and the haunting redwood forests of Anderson Valley, then over the majestic hills on Highway 253 (Boonville/Ukiah Road) connecting to Highway 101, and then south to Hopland. It was hard to nap on this ride as we were all excited and Lula and I had much to catch up on.

New friend at Nelson Winery

We arrived at our first stop, the Nelson Family Winery, just as the wood fired pizzas topped with mouthwatering ingredients like artichoke hearts, chèvre, gold bell peppers and fresh tomato sauce were being put into the oven. Lula and I were able to stretch our legs, greet a few admirers and say a very personal hello to a few of the redwoods that stand sentry in a delightful grove that offered plenty of welcome shade. The uprights went to work immediately sampling the wines and fortunately not straying too far away from the pizza oven, so Lula and I could continue to judge the various crusts. I must say I was very partial to the crust that had traces of homemade pepperoni.

It is easy to get around to all the wineries without having to drive yourself. A fleet of shuttle vans runs regularly between the wineries which makes carrying your souvenir wine tasting glass around so much easier than balancing it on the dashboard as you drive. As we had our very own DD, we hopped back into the car and we were off to our next stop, one of my favorite and regular haunts, Saracina Vineyards. As usual the team at Saracina paired their wines excellently with mouthwatering passed hors d’oeuvres, including delicate morsels of truffle cannellini bean purée with a hint of garlic, garnished with a snip of fresh chive, served on an individual hexagon-shaped pan de mie, a perfect bite sized snack if only I had been allowed one! I did however manage to look mournful enough to get the uprights to share one of the skewers of marinated flank steak served with an olive tapenade dipping sauce; delicious!

At Jeriko Winery

Next stop was Jeriko Estate which I had not been to before. The tasting room is housed in a large hacienda-style building. Your journey into the main tasting room takes you through an intimate corridor surrounded by stacks of oak barrels that set the mood beautifully. Directly out of the barrel and being showcased for the first time was a sampling of 2010 Jeriko Sangiovese—the uprights seemed to enjoy that. The tasting room itself is a huge open space that is broken up with intimate seating areas, a large tasting bar, stand up cocktail tables and, of course, my favorite, back bars full of yummy food with such offerings as aged artisan cheeses, sliced fresh French bread, bowls of pesto pasta salad with vegetables, barbecued sausage, kebabs of grilled veggies, tri-tip and succulent pig that I discovered was all being cooked right outside the open French doors. Had I been made aware of that fact earlier, I might have insisted that we spend more time on the picturesque patio; cooks are always dropping things and it is my duty to assist in the cleanup. While relaxing on our uprights’ laps on a large comfortable sofa, Lula and I greeted many well-wishers who stopped by to give us head rubs. I have to say I got a little jealous as Lula began to flirt unabashedly with a young handsome male upright who couldn’t contain himself from rubbing her belly and fawning all over her. All I can say is she was putty in his hands. I soon got over it when I was offered samples of pig, beef and cheese.

Next stop on our Passport journey was another favorite haunt of mine, Campovida. This spectacular property is being lovingly brought back to life by Anna, Gary, Ken and their team. Campovida is an oasis of relaxation, peace and tranquility. It’s an amazing experience, encompassing a winery, tasting room, organic gardens, meeting space, guest cottages, bocce ball courts and a swimming pool. Campovida is a wonderful place for picnics, events, meetings and gatherings. This weekend Mexico ruled, traditional music was playing and the live music being performed was World Folk, delicious authentic morsels were offered, carnitas, tacos of seasoned chicken and pork, rice, beans, salsas for all degrees of palates, mild, medium, hot and, paired wonderfully with samples of an extensive range of quality wines. A stand out for the uprights was the Talmage 2006 Charbono. During my visit I unfortunately did have a few words with a fellow canine that was not on a leash and came bounding over and was not very friendly. This illustrates perfectly why I cannot stress enough; uprights, PLEASE remember, only bring us to places if we are in a good mood and always keep us on a leash for our safety and the safety of others. Despite this little altercation, Lula, the uprights and I had a fabulous time with all our friends at Campovida as usual.

Yummmm! Steak sandwiches at Rack & Riddle

Next stop was Rack & Riddle, this ‘only by appointment’ wine processing and distribution center also crafts its own line of wines and is particularly adept at making great, affordable and extremely drinkable sparkling wines. Here Lula and I got to wrestle on hay bales, partake of roast beef sliders, had our picture taken and had lots of attention paid to us. At Rack & Riddle, there was a true representation of the diverse people that come out in multitudes to celebrate all things Hopland. From the roar of the Harleys  and their leather clad riders, to the high fashionistas from the City, retirees taking a rest from driving their RVs and locals out and about catching up with friends and sharing the adventure—who wouldn’t be having fun with a mix of visitors this colorful and friendly.

Our next stop was to visit my friends at Terra Sávia and the wonderful owner and operator, Yvonne. It’s a funky, fun-filled fantastic organic winery and olive oil producing delight. Usually open only by appointment, this charming warehouse style tasting room cumart gallery, really encompasses the spirit of the wine, olive growing and local farming communities of Mendocino County. On your visit be sure to take a stroll around the grounds, which are adorned with hand crafted structures of ingenuity and history. The Italian cuisine that was showcased paired very effectively with their wines. Some of the smorgasbord of delectable delights were, olives and olive oil tastings, bruschetta, walnut pesto blanco polenta squares, cannellini beans with pumpkin and sage and the most amazing (according to the uprights) figs poached in Petit Verdot with honey and lavender. The noises of appreciation coming from the uprights  were audible throughout the building. The figs paired amazingly well with the Rosé Sparking wine, which is made from Merlot grapes that add a wonderful depth of flavor. In keeping with the fun and funky atmosphere of Terra Sávia, the band was rocking and way cool, serving up a mixture of great covers that had people tapping their feet and swinging their hips. This is also the place where one of my uprights dropped his wine glass and there was one of those awful moments of complete silence that engulfed the building. Oh, but it did not last as the band struck up another familiar tune and the party continued on.

The grounds at Terra Sávia

Our last stop was downtown Hopland itself, where a concentration of six wineries have tasting rooms along with SIP!, which features 18 vineyards from Mendocino County in its pet friendly tasting room. In downtown Hopland we visited Brutocao Cellars where rock‘n’roll was the music de jour and people were dancing up a storm, playing bocce ball, strolling the grounds and obviously having a great time. Lula and I managed to successfully navigate the tasting room of McNab Ridge and the outdoor sample tables with their Halloween costumed pouring staff offering such tasty morsels as jumbo shrimp, tri-tip crostini, chipotle meatballs and handmade truffles. Next up, Graziano, with grilled pork tenderloin, foie gras and imported Italian sausages—just a few of the delectable edibles on offer. Finally after squeezing myself through the merry throngs of happy revelers into the very popular tasting room of McFadden Vineyards, I was instantly recognized and rewarded with a treat. They were serving wild rice and artichoke salad, beef steak marinated in local olive oil and McFadden blend herbs. Finally, onto the Weibel Family Vineyards where I dined on shitake mushroom bruschetta and salsa verde and Brie while the uprights sipped such taste sensation wines as sparkling pomegranate. Unfortunately for the uprights these wineries were so crowded it was hard to find room, however, when they did finally get in and sampled some of the wines and food they all had that total look of contentment that humans get after being indulged and indulging in a great day of fun, food and wine.

Finally exhausted, Lula and I settled into the car for the journey home. Safe, knowing we had a designated driver, we nestled back to back, snuggling, dreaming happy thoughts and reveling in a much needed nap of contentment. I have to say, I think I know how to show a girl a good time.

So fellow canine gourmands  and wine enthusiasts, what can I say to you apart from, if you get the opportunity to attend Hopland Passport I think you too will have a wonderful time. And if not for Hopland Passport but during your trip to Mendocino County, do make it a point of stopping off at some of the wineries mentioned above and tell them “Hairy sent me.” Sorry I couldn’t visit all the wineries participating, but next time I promise to visit those not mentioned here first.

A few things to note; the weather was very warm so be careful about leaving us in a vehicle unattended. Not all the wineries had water bowls out for their canine visitors, so make sure, uprights, that you bring a container for us to drink from. Waste bags are a must and PLEASE do not forget to clean up after us. Tickets include both days and can be purchased in advance online at www.hoplandpassport.com. If you have a designated driver, that person will get into the festival for free and be able to enjoy the delicious food and entertainment along with us. You can pick up your wristbands/tasting glass or buy tickets on the day at any of the participating wineries, all you do is choose which winery to start at and you are all set.

FYI: Keep checking this blog and www.visitmendocino.com as the publication of my new expanded 3^rd edition Pet Friendly Travel Guide to Mendocino County should be available for viewing and download around Thanksgiving time.

Cheers,

Hairy

View From Gualala Country Inn

Even though I stayed close to home this summer I did have the opportunity to visit the charming town of Gualala located on the Coast at the southern tip of Mendocino County. It was a gloriously sunny day at home and I was slowly making myself comfortable on the back deck to catch some rays when I heard familiar sounds coming from the guest bedroom. For a start, I heard closets being opened and I know they contain items belonging to moi. Finding this activity intriguing, I decided to investigate more closely. Sure enough, on the spare bed, were my overnight case and all the trimmings I need for a road trip that involves a sleepover. I immediately jumped onto the bed to make sure that all the necessities were being packed. I have been told that Gualala is quite the pet friendly place so my dads’ felt that I should go check it out.

Whether you travel to Gualala through Sonoma County or from within Mendocino County, the drive is spectacular and full of sights of historical interest to check out along the way. Gualala, for many, is a name that’s hard to pronounce and even harder to spell. Some people call it “gwa-LA-la”, but the natives call it “wa-LA-la” it’s derived from the Kashaya Pomo Indian phrase “ah kha wa la lee” which means, “where the water flows down”. And it does – right across from the center of town the Gualala River goes out to the ocean, past the big sand bar where the whales pass by every year.

Studio 391 in Cypress Village with friend, Jai Ram

Gualala has a rich and diverse history; originally inhabited by the Pomo, Gualala began its metamorphosis with homesteaders settling the area in the mid 1800s. Soon a lumber mill was opened and commerce began to blossom. Lumber and fishing sustained Gualala and allowed it to grow and prosper until the late 1950s. With the demise of the lumber industry, Gualala languished in a state of limbo for a while until its re-discovery by artists in the early 60s. Today Gualala has become a  vibrant and diverse art community. Visitors are drawn to this tranquil spot of stunning ocean views, unspoiled beaches, river activities and a hiking forest paradise.

After a pleasant drive down the Coast we arrived in Gualala and checked into the pet friendly Gualala Country Inn situated on Highway 1 at the south end of the town. This unpretentious and cozy Inn has uninterrupted views of the ocean and is within walking distance of the beach/river, shops, galleries and restaurants. Owners and operators Linda and Mike Bradbrook welcome guests with warm and friendly hospitality. Both long time Gualala residents and business owners, they are a wealth of information about exploring the area and were great at letting me know all the best pet friendly places I could go. The rooms are comfortable and each room has unique décor that reflects the country esthetic. A continental breakfast is included with your stay. For more information on the Gualala Country Inn, please visit www.gualala.com.

After the car ride down to Gualala I was ready for a romp on the beach and Linda suggested that we head a little north of town to Cooks Beach which is at 526 County Road, mile marker 3.14. Parking is limited and there is a slope to navigate to get to the beach, but is it worth it! Protected from the wind, this beautiful sandy cove is a great place to let off some steam. Please bring suitable waste bags; this is a carry in and carry out beach. After a short but fun time we headed back into town to Cypress Village. This charming area is full of unique galleries, shops and eateries. I was allowed into almost all the shops and galleries, where treats, ear rubs and lots of fuss were made of me.

Placewares in Cypress Village

After all this activity I was ready for some food. A favorite with locals and visitors, and sporting a killer view of the ocean with ample patio space for thirsty and hungry canines is Trinks Restaurant. Gelato, coffee drinks, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, desserts and specialties of the day make this a fun and affordable place to unwind. There was no water bowl outside for thirsty dogs but when asked for one it was brought out willingly. Trinks serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

I have reviewed St. Orres previously my recommendation still stands, it’s one of the best restaurant dining experiences uprights and their best friends can enjoy together. This time my dads’ were so wanting to go to Bones Roadhouse for some of the best BBQ on the Coast; unfortunately they’ve moved locations after a fire and no longer have an outdoor seating area. This pained me terribly as I had to sit in the car with the windows cracked as the air traveled in carrying with it the mouthwatering smells of flavorful BBQ. It is bordering on animal cruelty to subject a gourmet hound like me to a sensory attack. When my uprights returned they had not forgotten me and a wonderfully tasty BBQ chicken breast was my reward for all my suffering. (Guilt will get ‘em every time!!) Cypress Bar and Grill is another restaurant with patio seating that will accommodate canine diners. I promise a review on them soon.

Gualala Arts Center

The wonderfully scenic Bluff Top Walking Trail is a gentle trail with various access points throughout the town of Gualala and is a great on-leash opportunity to take in the unspoiled majesty of the ocean and headlands. Also worth a visit is the delightful and surprising Gualala Arts Center, nestled in the redwoods at the south end of Gualala. This multi-faceted performing arts center is the hub of the South Coast’s art community. Fifty years in the making, it is comprised of several galleries showcasing a wide range of artists and media, live theater, workshops, gardens, and has hiking trails down to the Gualala River which  makes it a delightful spot to visit. Well-behaved dogs are allowed on the grounds but not inside the building. So bring a picnic, hang out for a while, take us down to the river and enjoy a lazy afternoon feeding your cultural soul. Also, check out the Dolphin Gallery in the Sundstrom Shopping Center off Highway 1 in the town of Gualala for affordable original works of art by the Arts Center members, all proceeds benefit the Art Center.

Gualala has several pet friendly lodging choices and I look forward to staying in them and reporting back to you on my experiences. Gualala is evolving and growing and embracing its canine visitors and I am sure that by my next visit even more pet friendly activities and delights will be available. And I will definitely be doing a Gualala Review, Part Deux.

Milano Family Winery

Located one-half mile south of Hopland, off of Highway 101, the Milano Family Winery and tasting room is housed in an impressive old hop kiln constructed of solid redwood. This historic building has a seasonal creek running by the side and a covered picnic area where you can share your Milano Winery experience along with giant land tortoises, pygmy goats, pot-bellied pigs, Jacob’s sheep, llamas, geese and chickens. As some of these animals roam free it is advised that we be kept on a leash to avoid incident. You know how jealous other animals can get of our pampered lives. In fact, Milano is an animal rescue facility as well as a winery.

There are two sets of winemakers and styles showcased at the Milano Tasting Room, one is owned and operated by Deanna and Ted Starr along with their four-legged children Cuvée and Zeus. Unfortunately on the day that I visited they were not available to play.  The Starrs’ wines are produced using Mendocino-grown grapes. Kenneth Schilling is the other winemaker and he uses Sonoma County grapes for his wines. Milano Winery is a California Certified Organic Facility (CCOF). As well as producing wines in varietals that are more well-known such as Zinfandel, Cabernet and Merlot, Milano produces port, dessert wines and wines from little known varietals like, Carignane, Charbono and Valdiguié. Never heard of them but curious to try? Milano is the perfect place to indulge and experiment in a casual and unpretentious wine tasting experience. A minimal tasting fee is charged but waived if wine is purchased and/or you join the wine club.

Tasting Room

The tasting room at Milano is accessible only by stairs. On the day that I visited, the tasting room was hosted by Sher. No, not that one! Though I do own a bowtie worn by the Sher with a “C” which, had I known that Sher with an “S” was in the tasting room, I would have worn. Sher was very welcoming and friendly, guiding my uprights knowledgably through the wine tasting experience. A tour of the winery itself can be set up in advance by calling 707-744-1396, email tastingroom@milanowinery.com or visiting their website at www.milanowinery.com.

The day I visited the winery, there wasn’t a water bowl or any treats, but I was told that usually they are available and offered! Uprights BYOB (Bring Your Own Bags) as there are no disposable waste bags or waste receptacles on site. So that we will continue to be welcome, please uprights, be considerate.

MILANO FAMILY WINERY
14594 S. Hwy. 101
Hopland, California 95449
T: 707-744-1396
www.milanowinery.com

"Is everything packed?"

Now many of my longtime followers know that I love a road trip, even though it often involves work for me, I have to say the benefits can be delicious. So with the car packed and the sun shining we set off on an overnight adventure.

On car trips I usually ride safely in the back seat with one exception; we live in an area that has lots of very twisty roads. I don’t mind at all being in the back of the car on straight roads but the really curvy ones make me very agitated. So on the occasions that we have to travel on the very windy roads, I have made it perfectly clear to my uprights that sitting on a cushion on one of my dad’s laps with his arms wrapped securely and protectively around me is reassuring and preferable for me.

On arriving in Willits our first priority was lunch. As my faithful readers know I am a huge fan of The Loose Caboose Café at 10 Wood St., (see separate review). But my uprights felt that we should seek out another option with outside seating so we found ourselves at Busters Burgers & Brew, 150 Main Street, Willits. As well as indoor dining, Busters has two pub tables on a covered patio overlooking Main Street and as we were there close to opening we were lucky to be able to get one of those tables. Once I was lifted safely into my chair and we were all settled a young gentleman came out with menus. My dad asked if Busters had a Children’s Menu and could I have a bowl of water, the young man said, “Yes, of course,” and left to fetch them. He was back promptly and he thoughtfully asked my dads where he should place the bowl of water for moi. Now that I had a drink in front of me and passersby to enchant, I let my dads get on with the serious matter of ordering food.

Burgers & Brew offers several burger options along with pub style appetizers like Buffalo wings, hot dogs, chili, wraps and salads. Chicken, salmon and vegetarian and gluten-free alternatives are also represented on the menu. A nice selection of bottled and draft beers along with wine, soft drinks and some hard liquor are also available. For those who have the appetite and stamina there is the Belly Buster, three 1/3 lb. hamburger patties, with three cheeses and plenty of bacon along with a full order of fries or onion rings or a combo of both. If you eat it all in 45 minutes or less your face can adorn the walls of Busters. Even though I am sure I could give it a go, my dads settled for a small hamburger patty sans cheese, bun and veggies for me. If Busters wants a photograph of moi for their wall, however, I will be happy to oblige!

"Waiting for my burger."

One of my dads had a chicken breast sandwich with melted Swiss and avocado and my other dad had a Buster classic burger with cheddar cheese; we shared a basket of fries. My dads were very excited to see one of their favorite Zinfandels by the glass on the menu and ordered two glasses. Busters offer’s no frills American favorite fare with friendly and accommodating service.

After lunch we took a stroll along Main Street. Willits has some charming and funky local stores. Great new and used independent book stores, health food, men’s and women’s clothing, teenage fashion, internet cafes and music are all represented. I was able to do some shopping at J D Redhouse & Company as four-pawed shoppers get to go in this great mercantile store.

We then checked into our accommodation for the evening at the Baechtel Creek Inn and Spa (www.baechtelcreekinn.com). This attractive and well-maintained Inn has a wide variety of well-appointed rooms with luxurious modern touches. Nestled in a quiet creek-side setting, it’s located at 101 Gregory Street off Highway 101 in the town of Willits. From the moment I entered the lobby I was greeted with a very enthusiastic welcome by the front desk clerk along with a goodie bag which included a note of welcome with pet guidelines, biodegradable waste bags and wipes and my favorite, organic treats which we were told are made by the students in the Willits High School workability program. Yum were they delicious!

Baechtel Creek Inn

Our pet friendly room, located conveniently on the ground floor, was immaculate, very comfortable and tastefully decorated; it was even equipped with an ornate brass and pillowy dog bed that I felt immediately at home in. The room also had a microwave and small refrigerator, great for preparing my dinner, There was also a dog bowl, a very thoughtful and welcome surprise especially if your uprights forgot to pack yours. There is a home-cooked breakfast (for uprights) included in the price of your room, we are not allowed in the indoor dining area but there is an outside patio with tables where we can accompany our uprights while they enjoy a delicious selection of several hot breakfast items, cereal, baked goods and several beverage choices. A national daily newspaper is available in the lobby for guests’ enjoyment. While at the Inn we were able to get internet access so I could answer my bark mail, Twitter my followers and keep my Facebook page updated with all my latest adventures. HBO and a nice selection of TV stations were also available in the room.

"Comfy!"

The Baechtel Creek Inn also has a day spa with a comprehensive variety of treatments, an outdoor swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Unfortunately I was unable to take advantage of these facilities as they are for uprights only. The Baechtel Creek Inn has gone to a lot of trouble to make an eye-catching and charming oasis with an emphasis on comfort and elegance. With tasteful whimsical statues, gardens, patios and quiet contemplative spots it is easy to immediately unwind and relax. I heard my uprights remark that they have spent far more on far less agreeable accommodations and highly recommend the Baechtel Creek Inn.

Willits is known as the Gateway to The Redwoods and is a delightful place to stop off. You can even take the Skunk Train through the redwoods for a steam train ride from the past. No matter what season you visit Mendocino County, the town of Willits and the surrounding country offer you so many things to do and see; river rafting, train rides, bicycling, wine tasting, museums, boutique shops and dining, to name just a few. Willits is also close to over 60 boutique and well known wineries. For a break from the everyday consider an overnighter or mini vacation stay in the heart of Mendocino County.

Travis & me

Tour Mendocino Wines specializes in private, customized guided tours of several wine regions including, Mendocino, Sonoma, Napa, and Lake Counties. The tours are designed to focus on the preferences and tastes of their guests. Travis first wanted to know if there were any specific wineries that I was interested in visiting.  I suggested a couple and asked Travis to select some of the pet friendly wineries in and around the Ukiah and Hopland, focusing on several that I had not visited before.

A date was set, then a picnic was packed and we were off. My traveling companions and I were picked up promptly at the scheduled time in an immaculate luxury SUV tour-mobile. Travis immediately greeted Lula and me with a delicious gourmet treat and plenty of ear rubs. On the seats of the vehicle were printed copies of the day’s itinerary including a brief history and synopsis of each location/winery we were going to visit. Bottled water was also waiting in the cup holders for the uprights in my party. Once we were comfortably settled in our seats we ventured forth to our first stop.

During the drive Travis explained why he had chosen these four particular wineries that were on our tour, regaling us with some history of each location and interesting factual and fun tidbits of information which kept us entertained and informed on the uniqueness and specialness of each place.

Testa Winery

Our first stop was Testa Ranch and Vineyards; tours and tastings are by appointment only. This family owned and operated ‘slice of Italy’ has been producing wines since 1912 on their ranch in Calpella, California. Here you step back in time into a living tradition and intimate family hospitality. Testa produces two delicious blended wines called simply Black and White. A Rosé is due for its first release in Summer 2011. Upon arrival I was immediately greeted by name by Maria and Rusty Testa along with crows and clucks from the wandering rooster and chickens nearby. Unfortunately, our uprights wisely kept Lula and me on our leashes, which was very frustrating, however, we have been known to chase chickens. Travis immediately produced two water bowls and fresh water for Tallulah and me and another gourmet treat. Tallulah and I were allowed on every part of the tour of the grounds, wine cellar, tasting room and the ranch’s vacation rental home.  After an hour or so of Maria and Rusty’s delightful and friendly hospitality it was time to move on to our next destination, Campovida in Hopland.

Campovida picnic area

Campovida is, in a word: Amazing. Brought back to life in less than a year from an overgrown and neglected former winery estate, it is currently being lovingly restored and developed into a state-of-the-art facility of incredible beauty and functionality. This gem of a complex was an ideal choice of Travis’s for our picnic lunch. Tour Mendocino Wines will arrange a picnic lunch for you or you are welcome to bring your own. We had opted to bring our own and our uprights soon got to work arranging the table of goodies while Travis organized the wine to accompany our bounty. The water bowls and treats were once again set up for us in the picnic area. While we were soaking up the ambiance and grazing on delicious food, several of the Campovida staff stopped by to say “Hi” (and they also knew me by name). Travis had arranged for us to have a tour of the property along with the 5 acres of flower and vegetable gardens. Ken, the head gardener and tour guide, made sure that the uprights had wine poured by the very friendly tasting room staff and off we went. This is a wonderful way to tour the facility and walk off a very satisfying lunch.

Patio at SIP! in Hopland

Prior to our tour, when my uprights and Travis were discussing which wineries to visit, we discovered that some locations are not set up for tours or tasting on-site. Travis had the perfect solution with our third stop at SIP! Mendocino, Hopland. At this unique wine/gift store and tasting room you can taste a lot of the wines from small production boutique vineyards as well as more established wineries. Daily SIP! has 18 wines to sample, along with Mendocino County beers; appetizer platters are also available for purchase. Water bowls and treats were provided for us canines while the uprights got to savor the wines in the cozy and comfortable tasting room and on the pet friendly patio. The SIP! staff, like all the places before, welcomed me personally by name and we were even allowed to go off leash in the back patio. However, no sooner had I been let off the leash, while in the middle of doing some exploring I noticed an open door and “whoosh” I was back in the tasting room and making myself available for pats and attention from fellow tasters, much to my dads’ embarrassment. How does the saying go?  Oh yes, one door closes and another opens! My dads were anxious to sample wines from Naughty Boy Vineyards (this winery label proudly portrays the winemaker’s faithful dog Little Lucky). From the satisfying grins on the uprights’ faces I could tell they really enjoyed the 2007 Pinot Noir a lot. It also got me thinking that I know a great face that would look awesome on a wine label! Wine growers take note: ‘Hairy Putter’s Vintage Reserve’ has a wonderful sound to it!!!

Even though I had been fortunate enough to visit Saracina Vineyards and Caves on a previous excursion, Tallulah and her upright parents had not. This was our final destination on our tour. My review of Saracina is published on this blog, and on this visit I was equally impressed and once again we had a very enjoyable and intimate tour and tasting experience.

After all the excitement of the day Lula and I were sleepy and settled down for naps as Travis drove us back to our drop off point. However, the treats and surprises were not over, Travis had parting gifts for us all, the uprights each got a gift-wrapped Tour Mendocino Wine souvenir goblet and Lula and I got a paw print gift sack with handmade organic dog treats from one of my favorite pet stores, The Barkery in Ukiah.

Faithfull readers and travelers to Mendocino County—there is no reason to exclude your canine companions from a tour of pet friendly wineries. Note: Pet friendly winery tours are just one type of tour Tour Mendocino Wines has the knowledge and capability to design and arrange. Tour Mendocino Wines offers an array of wine adventures tailored exclusively for you without the hassle of driving, setting up appointments and organizing the tours. They take the work out of the equation and you get to have all the fun. For more information please visit www.tourmendocinowines.com and happy tail wagging, vine sniffing, and wine drinking.

Outdoor seating at the tasting room

On 600 acres of bio-diverse property, 300 of them vineyards, John and Patty Fetzer have created a touch of Tuscany; right here in Mendocino County. Saracina Winery is a small production, California certified organic winery with several unique surprises, located a hairsbreadth outside of Hopland, California. As soon as you turn off Highway 101 onto the property with its rolling hills framing the fields of vines, you are immediately transported to tranquility and serenity.

The several ranches, vineyards and winery that encompass this magnificent setting are home to roaming sheep and goats, groves of 100 year old olive trees, pomegranate orchards, bamboo gardens, wild azaleas, hiking trails, vegetable gardens and tranquil ponds and attract a myriad of wildlife. The buildings and grounds of Saracina have a touch of an east meets west aesthetic, which delicately balances rustic and modern style.  Saracina is named after a centuries-old farmhouse and vineyard in Tuscany, where John and Patty spent their honeymoon. A replica of the cottage has been lovingly recreated on the grounds.

Upon arriving at the winery, 100 year old olive trees stand at attention like sentries on duty to greet the visitors, the trunks are hauntingly beautiful in their incredible twisted and gnarly state. I made my customary greeting and proceeded to follow the walkway through small ornamental gardens and patches of circular lawns sniffing my way curiously towards the current tasting room. A new and bigger tasting room is under construction and will be ready to receive visitors in the summer of 2011. For now your tasting room adventure begins, quite literally, at the entrance to the caves.

The caves took two years to create and the rock was so hard that normal rock cutting methods were ineffective and the cutting machines that dug the Channel Tunnel from England to France were brought over to break through the stubborn rock to create the labyrinth of caves.  As you travel through the tunnels on either side you will marvel at the volume of oak barrels and the welcoming (especially in the summer) coolness of the caves.

The tasting room in the cave.

The tasting room guru, Elliot, a very pleasant young man, greeted us at the entrance to the caves; he is very knowledgeable about the history of the vineyard and the nuances of the wines themselves. Saracina winemaking emphasizes a respect for tradition and for hand-crafted techniques, including the use of indigenous yeast and bacteria, minimal intervention and no filtration of the wines. They are California certified organic by CCOF California Certified Organic Farmers, wines with limited production; varietals include Sauvignon Blanc, Petite Syrah, Pinot Noir, Syrah and Zinfandel. A couple of tasty and quirky blends are also produced under the Atera brand; a red blend affectionately named Old Soul Red and a classic white Rhone-style blend soothingly named The Choir.

On the day I visited Saracina a very special treat had been arranged in advance for me, and for once, it was not some gastronomical delicious delight (though I would have liked that too). I was given the opportunity to visit The Choir! Yes, Saracina has its own choir. Now this choir doesn’t actually sing with voices, but while standing before them you can hear the music of the ancients radiate from their eerily majestic forms. This collection of sculptured torsos and heads are based on a modern interpretation of the Chinese Terracotta Army, circa 210 BC, discovered in 1974 in Xi’an, China. John and Patty fell in love with the artist’s interpretation on a visit to China and imported several to guard the caves of Saracina. This modern Chinese artist’s homage to the priceless originals is a captivating, if not a little scary, sight. They have faces that, to me, resemble (He Who Must Not Be Named) from my namesake’s bestselling books and film series. The choir is worthy of a toast from your caregivers, but we, however, should not raise our legs.

I look so small sitting in front of The Choir

When you have had your fill of tasting and sampling, may I suggest purchasing a bottle and taking it to one of the picturesque outdoor seating areas and savoring the view over the vineyards? Watch the gentle sway of the weeping willows as they bow before you and cast their reflection in the crystal clear ponds and close your eyes and dream (like me) of one day being in Tuscany.

For more information on Saracina visit www.saracina.com. Saracina is a beautiful winery.

Water bowls: Yes
Waste bag dispenser: Yes
Treats: No

Writing my reviews

Even though I have not posted anything recently, it does not mean that I have been lounging around, sleeping, eating, running on the beach and having a thoroughly good old time. Well maybe it does, but my friends, I have also been ‘out and about’ gathering material and exploring new and exciting pet friendly locations to talk to you about. So, as we enter 2011, I am looking forward to sharing my experiences and helping everyone get the most out of traveling (with your uprights, of course) to Mendocino County and beyond.

Keeping it local, I want to talk to you about the charming town of Boonville, located on Highway 128 in the heart of Anderson Valley, California and share with you some of its charming history. I’ll also let you know about some places to stop for a great meal, exciting liquid refreshment and fun shopping and social opportunities.

Boonville was founded in 1862 and as you explore the town you can still see lots of examples of the period and get a wonderful sense of the town’s history especially from many of the town’s original buildings. Boonville is also the home of the Boontling folk language, in fact the beer produced and bottled in Boonville at the pet friendly award winning Anderson Valley Brewing Company has the motto “it’s bahl hornin’”, which means “it’s good drinkin’” in Boontling. For more Boonville history and Boontling word examples a good site to visit is www.andersonvalleymuseum.org.

Today, Boonville continues to be the heartbeat of Anderson Valley and is the setting for many of the Valley’s cultural, art and gastronomic festivals and events. The Anderson Valley Film Festival will take place Jan 28th – 30th 2011. The Alsatian Varietals wine festival is held at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds each February. In early spring the annual Boonville Beer Festival is held at the fairgrounds, featuring beers from over 50 craft breweries. The Pinot Noir Festival is held in May. In July, the Wool-growers’ Sheepdog Trials is held at the fairgrounds. Boonville also hosts the long-running Sierra Nevada World Music Festival on the weekend of the summer solstice. Then Boonville hosts the annual Mendocino County Fair in September.

Boonville still maintains an old world feel; currently the town is home to some great wine tasting rooms, cafés, quaint shops and affordable art and craft galleries. It’s a pedestrian friendly town; many of the towns’ businesses have outdoor seating which makes sharing the Boonville experience with your uprights even more appealing.

Boonville General Store

One of my favorite places to have lunch is the Boonville General Store. With indoor and outdoor seating this friendly café creates fresh delicious breads, baked goods, salads, sandwiches, pizzas and pastry items using organic and local ingredients. We are always welcome at any of the outdoor tables. A fun story I want to share, a few weeks ago my uprights and I arrived at the Bakery for a quick bite of lunch and it was pouring rain, but luckily a few of the outdoor picnic tables are covered. At the adjoining table were two ladies and their four-legged companion. As I was jumping up to my seat, they looked at me and said in unison, “Is that Hairy Putter?” Of course upon hearing my name, I immediately had to go over and personally introduce myself. The ladies were from Berkeley and are fans of moi and recognized me immediately as they are devoted followers of my blog and use my reviews to plan their trips. How flattering is that!

Mosswood Market

A few doors further along is the Mosswood Market, again with indoor and outdoor seating, so you and your uprights can enjoy creative Panini Sandwiches, homemade soups, salads and Mexican- influenced items in a sidewalk aesthetic . Usually both of these cafés have water bowls for us, but if not, just ask and one will be brought out.

Some other highlights of Boonville are the award winning winery of Zina Hyde Cunningham. This pet friendly tasting room has a great bar tasting counter, friendly staff and of course an opportunity to taste some extraordinary award winning wines. The Boonville Hotel’s restaurant, Table 128, has patio dining (seasonal) and is a place to experience imaginative cuisine created from local and seasonal ingredients. Well behaved canines are welcome at the patio tables.

Laughing Dog Bookstore

A ‘must stop’ is the Laughing Dog Bookstore where we are sure to get the attention we deserve and, if we are really well behaved, a treat is always on hand along with a very welcome bowl of cool water to quench the thirst of a bibliophile canine . This newly opened independent book store is the dream of Loretta and Dan Houck and is a haven for all things literature and dogs. The Laughing Dog has a wonderfully varied selection of new and used books, an indoor reading room along with a great outdoor patio seating area (seasonal) for us canines to chill out and join our uprights in soaking up some of the valley rays while enjoying a good read. With authors’ reading events, book club meetings, free Wi-Fi, local artists’ work adorning the walls (Feb 2011 will be a Puppy Love: A show of Dog Photography), it is a wonderful place to chill. With the blessing of Loretta and Dan’s four-legged children, MOCA and Stanley, you too will be a Laughing Dog after a visit to this most dog friendly book store.

If you plan on staying in or near Boonville for overnight or longer, a few places to consider are: The Boonville Hotel which has a couple of pet friendly guest accommodations. The Anderson Valley Inn, Highlands Guest Ranch, Ravenridge Cottages, The Other Place and the Long Valley Ranch. For a full listing please download my Visit Mendocino County Pet Friendly Travel Guide. Also, don’t forget to stop in at Yorkville Cellars Winery, just before Boonville if coming in on Highway 128 from Cloverdale, to experience some great organic wine at one of Anderson Valley’s pet friendly wineries.

When you go to Boonville you are sure to have a “Bahlest” time.

Whistles are blowing, engines are churning, steam is bellowing, passengers are gathering and ‘All Aboard’ is sounding.  My excitement is building as the activity on the platform increases. Suddenly I am being lifted and carried up the steps, then gently placed down at the entrance to my carriage. I walk (well – excitedly strut) into the car and acknowledge the pats and words of welcome from my fellow passengers. I find my seat and after my uprights have placed my travel cushion into position, I hop up and prop my paws on the window ledge for support and stick my head out of the window. With a final cacophony of sound; whistles, bells and engine noise, we are off and full steam ahead on a glorious North Coast day for my first steam train adventure aboard the California Western Railway’s Engine No. 45, with service from Fort Bragg to Northspur and Willits.

The Skunk Train is celebrating 125 years of operation this year, and as part of the festivities, I have been invited by the Chief Skunk and my very good upright friend, Robert Pinoli, to be a part of this magical piece of history.  Skunk Train travel for pets is a new endeavor and one that I am exceedingly enthusiastic about; however, there are some very important guidelines and safety issues to impart to your uprights.  First, you must be a very well behaved and a people-friendly pooch.  If you are small enough to travel in a carrier, that is a good idea, and for those of us traveling on leash, a soft muzzle is preferred. We must remain on leash at all times but we are as free as our uprights to travel from enclosed cars to the open air observation car. This winter the Skunk Train will be building an off leash play and potty area at Northspur for our convenience.

The Train Singer

From the moment we picked up our tickets at the Skunk Train Depot office in Fort Bragg to our return, every member of the Skunk Train crew made me feel so very welcome. I was even serenaded by the Train Singer (Greg Schindel) with a delightful song about a dog called “Boomer Jack” that traveled the C.W.R. long ago. Jessie, our host in the 1st class carriage, served her guests sparkling wine and hors d’oeuvres. Jessie always made sure I had plenty of water to drink and the uprights had plenty of opportunities to try a variety of Mendocino County wines throughout the trip, accompanied by mini quiches, cheese and crackers (yum, cheese – my favorite) and finally chocolate (sadly – never for canines) and biscotti.

C. R. Johnson (Steve Worthen)

On this trip we were joined by “C.R. Johnson” the original owner of C.W.R, authentically brought back to life by actor Steven Worthen, who regaled the passengers with entertaining tales and factual insights of the Railway.

Hairy in his seat

So picture me, comfy on my cushion, head catching the breeze from the open window, watching the giant redwoods, sparkling river and the chance sighting of a human inhabitant of the cottages located close to the tracks as we traverse into the thick of the countryside. I’ve been lulled to contentment for 1 ½ hours with the rhythm of the ride, the delicious food, attention, songs and tales until we arrive at Northspur. There is a 45 minute stop over which gives passengers an opportunity to stretch legs and paws, partake in great BBQ food, beverages and desserts – the entertainment just continues and you can even do some shopping. Then it’s all aboard again for the return trip to Fort Bragg. I spent most of the return in the open air observation carriage meeting my public and being the center of attention, as is my custom.

Whether you are a visitor to Fort Bragg or a resident of the area, a ride on the Skunk Train is a wonderful historical experience that gives a wonderful sense of what and how transportation was before the invention of the automobile.

The Skunk Train offers a variety of trips and visiting their website at www.skunktrain.com is the best way to find out all about the various excursions and exciting themed trips. Hopefully soon you will be full steam ahead yourselves and remember your water bowl, waste bags and treats.

This full- steam- ahead- locomotive canine fan gives the Skunk Train four very enthusiastic Paws.

Esterlina Vineyard

Several months ago, I visited Esterlina when the winery was hosting a special event. After having one of nicest times (there were lots of other four-pawed guests to play with, along with their uprights), I felt it was time to pay a call on this ”By Appointment Only” winery to get the proper Esterlina tasting experience.

Esterlina has several vineyards including Everett Ridge (Sonoma County), the only winery in Cole Ranch (Mendocino County) which happens to be the smallest appellation in the USA, and the postcard-perfect Esterlina Vineyards and Winery and tasting room in Anderson Valley, also located in Mendocino County.  At these locations the Sterling family creates and produces respected and award winning wines.  Collectively, the wineries produce, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Riesling to name a few varietals. In fact, the Riesling produced at Cole Ranch has been served at the White House under the last four Presidents including the current President, President Obama.

When making an appointment you will be given detailed instructions on how to get to the winery.  As you turn off Highway 128 and slowly begin your ascent to Esterlina, you enter a realm of complete tranquility as nature’s sights and sounds engulf you.  Once you arrive at Esterlina a warm and genuine welcome awaits, it may be by one of the brothers or if you are really lucky, Mr. Murio Sterling himself will be your gracious host during your visit. Aided by a knowledgeable and very personable staff, you are literally welcome guests in the Sterling’s home and this is reflected throughout the tasting experience.  In fact Esterlina is sterling in Spanish.

Tastings are conducted either inside an intimate tasting room or on one of the outside decks that offer breathtaking views of the vineyards that surround the Esterlina estate along with the awe-inspiring Anderson Valley displayed before you. The tasting experience is casual, informative, fun and exceedingly pet-friendly.       

Shady decks for wine tasting

I was greeted by Patty Liddy, Esterlina’s Tasting Room Director and my uprights were asked if I could have a welcome treat (like they dared to say “no”).  After taking some time to sniff my way around the shaded garden area and have a drink of water from one of several water bowls placed around the winery, we were invited to go up the stairs to the viewing deck where our tasting experience was to take place.  Having seated ourselves around a family style table we were left to contemplate the breathtaking view, while Patty excused herself so she could begin to bring out the accouterments necessary to begin the wine tasting ritual.   I was most interested in the divided bowl that housed a selection of crackers, pretzels, cheese snacks and other delicious items that soon appeared on the table.  Shortly, we were joined by a couple who have visited this Esterlina Winery several times; they made a very good impression by bestowing large amounts of attention on me.  If there are specific wines that you would like to try on your visit, especially some of the reserves and limited editions, request these in advance so that they can be available.  As this was our first Esterlina tasting experience, Patty had pre-selected an assortment of varietals and vintages to give us a comprehensive sampling of the range of wines they produce.

Captivating, relaxing, and satisfying, describe the Esterlina approach to wine tasting. To keep this atmosphere is why Esterlina and many other wineries have a “By Appointment Only” policy.  Patty was very engaging and knowledgeable, asking pertinent questions of her guests to ascertain their preferences and guiding us to wines that match or came close to the criteria expressed.   Several other parties brought a picnic lunch to enjoy with the tasting.   Esterlina’s spectacular and breathtaking environment is the perfect venue to have a very personal guide to the variety of wines produced at all the Esterlina Vineyards.  Oh, and let’s not forget the warmhearted welcome, abundant head rubs, crackers and heaps of attention that we canines get.

Four Very Enthusiastic Paws for Esterlina.